changer votre damper
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changer votre damper
L'un dentre vous m'a demande la procedure pour la pooulie moteur.
en francais le serrer avec l'ancien boulon a 330NM puis mettre le nouveau boulon et le serrer a 37lbft ou 50 Nm et puis faire 140 degres. Perso je n'y suis pas arrive j'ai pu faire seulement 100 degrees. Et pourtant j'avais un levier de plus d'un metre et j'etais pendu en sautant apres soit au moins 2500 NM
voici la procedure en anglais:
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Now reinstall your A/C pulley using a 15mm socket wrench. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
en francais le serrer avec l'ancien boulon a 330NM puis mettre le nouveau boulon et le serrer a 37lbft ou 50 Nm et puis faire 140 degres. Perso je n'y suis pas arrive j'ai pu faire seulement 100 degrees. Et pourtant j'avais un levier de plus d'un metre et j'etais pendu en sautant apres soit au moins 2500 NM
voici la procedure en anglais:
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Now reinstall your A/C pulley using a 15mm socket wrench. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Pascal.
"burn rubber not your soul"
"burn rubber not your soul"
pendant que l'on y est voici tous les couples pour une C5
http://cofba.org/users/orion98/C5torque.pdf
http://cofba.org/users/orion98/C5torque.pdf
Pascal.
"burn rubber not your soul"
"burn rubber not your soul"
- WHIZZHOT
- Small block
- Posts: 1735
- Joined: 17 May 2007 23:03
- Corvette: Grand Sport 96
- Location: 38 - Isère
Burner, l'unité c'est Kg.m et non Kg / mBurner wrote:Merci , donc 33 Kg / M ET 5 Kg / M et 140 °

Edit suite à gourance de ma part

Pour les valeurs, c'est environ, puisque 1m.Kg = 9,8 Nm
Last edited by WHIZZHOT on 12 Sep 2007 22:37, edited 1 time in total.



tu joues sur l'écriture Whizzot , en plus tu recopies mal ( c'est la / qui te gêne )
1 Newton Mètre = 0,1019 Kg force Mètre
1 Kg Force Metre = 9,807 Newton Mètre
http://www.planete-biker.com/conversion ... atique.php

1 Newton Mètre = 0,1019 Kg force Mètre
1 Kg Force Metre = 9,807 Newton Mètre
http://www.planete-biker.com/conversion ... atique.php
- WHIZZHOT
- Small block
- Posts: 1735
- Joined: 17 May 2007 23:03
- Corvette: Grand Sport 96
- Location: 38 - Isère
Burner wrote:tu joues sur l'écriture Whizzot , en plus tu recopies mal ( c'est la / qui te gêne )![]()
1 Newton Mètre = 0,1019 Kg force Mètre
1 Kg Force Metre = 9,807 Newton Mètre
http://www.planete-biker.com/conversion ... atique.php




Par contre effectivement j'ai été géné par la "/" dans ton unité



- WHIZZHOT
- Small block
- Posts: 1735
- Joined: 17 May 2007 23:03
- Corvette: Grand Sport 96
- Location: 38 - Isère
Et certains journaux auto aussi l'utilise encore...jerome wrote:allez je chipotte!
c'est m.Kg et non pas Kg.m de plus cette unité n'existe plus! c'est les papy qui utilisent encore ca!![]()
D'ailleurs, on ne devrait plus non plus parler de puissance en "chevaux", mais en KW

Mais les habitudes ont la vie dure



